By Michelle Roberts Health editor, BBC News online. From the section Health; Share. Translation of tomato at Merriam-Webster's Spanish-English Dictionary. Audio pronunciations, verb conjugations, quizzes and more. Handcrafted stoneware ceramics, lead-free, food safe and microwaveable. Inspired by the countless childhood adventures in the garden trying to catch these helicopters. Translate text or webpage. Type text or a website address or translate a document. Google Translate for Business: Translator Toolkit Website Translator Global Market. Tomato; Cross-section and full view of a hothouse (greenhouse-grown) tomato. In 1753, Linnaeus placed the tomato in the genus Solanum (alongside the potato). For the Ricotta: 1/2 gallon whole milk 1/2 quart buttermilk A few rasps of nutmeg on the Microplane zest of 1 lemon, reserving some for garnish 1 tablespoon chopped. Tomatoes In The Florida Garden. James M. Stephens. The tomato, a relative of pepper, potato, and eggplant, is not only the most important commercial vegetable in Florida, but also is the most popular garden vegetable. It can be grown successfully by many methods of culture: in baskets, in solution, on stakes, on the ground, mulched, unmulched or in a greenhouse. VARIETIESStaking (Indeterminate) Large Fruit`Floradel' — once a leading vine- ripe commercial variety; seeds hard to find. Resistant to Fusarium wilt (1); gray leafspot; and graywall.`Tropic' — another hard one to find, but worth looking for. Resistant to Fusarium wilt (1); vert. Resistant to: Fusarium wilt (1); early blight; gray leafspot; graywall; leaf mold.`Better Boy' — nationwide favorite that does well in Florida. Resistant to Fusarium wilt (1); vert. Medium size red fruit. Likes cages.`Manapal' — old Florida variety. Medium size red fruit.`Bragger' — Has produced good yields of 1- pound fruits in organic amended soils. Indeterminate (Small fruit)`Red Cherry' — fruits are 1. Bush- type to Semi- vining (Determinate) Large Fruit`Walter' — old standard, large red fruit, resistant to: Fusarium (1 and 2), gray leafspot, graywall.`Suncoast' — New deep red inside and out, large fruit; resistant to Fusarium (1 and 2), vert. A University of Florida release.`Floramerica' — Award winner. Resistant to Fusarium wilt (1 and 2), gray leafspot, gray mold, crown rot.`Flora- dade' — Recommend this one. Big red fruit; resistant to Fusarium wilt (1 and 2), vert. Large red fruit; resistant to vert. Sets large red fruits at higher temperatures than most varieties.`Celebrity' — A favorite, diseas resistant variety in Jacksonville, does well in other areas of the state. Small fruit (determinate)'Floragold', `Florida Basket', `Florida Lanai', `Florida Petite', `Patio', `Cherry Grande', `Castlette', `Roma', `San Marzano', and `Micro- Tom'. Extra- large varieties`Abe Lincoln', `Beefmaster', `Beefsteak', `Bragger', `Giant Belgium', `Holmes Mexican', `Mortgage Lifter', `Giant Oxheart', `Ponderosa', and `Wolford's Wonder'. State record held by `Delicious'. NEWS: Company issues apology for infringement of Crystal Tomato. Warning: counterfeit Crystal Tomato Wenn diese Karte als Normalbeschw How to say tomato and the words associated with tomato in Hebrew. Others`Champion' (Ind), `Big Boy' (Ind), `Hayslip' (Det), `Horizon' (Det), `Homestead' (Det), `Oxheart' (Ind), `Stakeless' (Det), `Four- Way Hybrid' (Ind), `Jubilee' (Int. Two popular tomato look- alikes are the tomatillo and the husk tomato, both having a fruit enclosed by a thin, papery husk. Note — Variety names of tomatoes often include such letters as V, F, N, which stand for, respectively, verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and nematodes. PLANTING INFORMATIONTomatoes may be started in the garden or container by planting seeds or by setting transplant seedlings. Suckers are also sometimes used. If seeded, sow seed sparingly down the furrow. When the seedlings emerge and are 3- 4 inches tall, thin them to desired stand. The extra plants may be used to transplant into `skips' which have occurred in the row. Table 1 gives some specific planting information. PRODUCING TRANSPLANTSWith proper care, well- rooted, sturdy, 4 to 5 inch high tomato plants can be produced in 4 to 5 weeks. Older plants up to eight weeks old may be used but yield less than the younger plants. Plants can be grown in plant beds, peat pots or peat pellets, or containers such as wooden flats, metal pans, plastic . How to grow transplants in a seedbox: 2. Put holes in bottom of containers for drainage, then fill with 2 or 3 inches of good, clean garden soil. To sterilize soil, heat 2 inch layer of moist soil in over (1. For fertilization, add 1 tablespoonful of 6- 8- 8 or similar analysis fertilizer to each gallon of soil. Be careful not to over- fertilize. For a better medium than sterilized garden soil, purchase a blended potting mix (commercial grade), or you can prepare your own. Buy treated seed, freshly packaged of the varieties best suited for your purpose and area. Sow seed by either of the following methods: Scatter seed over smooth, firm, moist surface; lightly cover with soil, then sprinkle with water; or Open up . In both cases, keep containers moist and in a warm place after seeding. If `damping- off' is noticed after young plants come up, wet the base of the plants with an approved fungicide. Thin plants to 2 to 3 inches apart when they are 1 inch high. Resetting into larger pots is often done to obtain more vigorous transplants. Tomato plants grown in protected places tend to become somewhat weak and spindly. A few days exposure to the outdoor environment while they are still in containers will help them survive better. SOIL PREPARATIONLiming — The best soil p. H for tomatoes is 6. Lime is needed if p. H is less that 6. Three to 5 pounds of dolomitic limestone per 1. If the p. H is normal, but calcium level is low, apply gypsum at the rate of 1 lb/1. Applications of manures and other organic fertilizers provide micronutrients also. Fertilization — For every 1. One half should be applied at planting time, placed in 2 bands each located slightly below and 2 to 3 inches to the side of the row. Part of the remaining . The rest should be added later at 7 to 1. Adequate irrigation is a must to get full benefit from the fertilizer. If chicken manure or compost is used, broadcast and mix well into the soil 2 to 3 weeks prior to planting. Apply up to 1. 00 pounds per 1. Then at planting time, make side band applications of low nitrogen inorganic fertilizer (for example, use 1 quart of 4- 8- 8 per 5. Compost and well- rotted, aged manure can be placed in the transplant hole, then mixed with the soil. A mixture of 2 pounds of composted yard waste plus 2 pounds of poultry manure makes a good transplant hole amendment. SETTING THE PLANTSTomato plants are easily injured or even killed by frost. In the Spring, they should be set in the garden as soon as frost danger has passed. They should be set early enough in the Fall to produce a crop before danger of frost. Winter production is possible in south Florida. Transplant soon after a rain, when cloudy, or in late afternoon. Keep roots moist and undamaged. Set the plants slightly deeper than they grow in the flat. A starter solution of 1 to 2 tablespoons of 6- 8- 6, 4- 8- 8, 6- 6- 6 or similar analysis fertilizer per 1 gallon of water will get plants off to a fast start. Pour 1 pint around the base of each plant. Protect the plant by shading for 2 to 4 days after transplanting. CARE— A material such as straw, leaves, dried lawn clippings, or plastic which is placed on the soil around the plant is called a mulch. It conserves soil moisture, holds down weeds, keeps fertilizer from leaching, and keeps fruits from rotting on the soil. Black plastic mulch is suggested for use by home gardeners. To mulch with plastic: 1) prepare soil and apply all the fertilizer; 2) make sure soil bed is moist and lay plastic over the bed and anchor the edges with soil; 3) cut slits in plastic and set plants. Enough moisture from rainfall and irrigation will seep into the rootzone from row middles and through the slits. However, be sure to water each plant as it is set. Staking any variety will help to keep fruit off the ground and help to conserve space. One method of staking is to drive a 6- foot stake into the soil 3 to 4 inches from each plant, preferably before the plant is set. As the plant grows, tie it to the stake with string 4 to 6 times during the season. Make the ties just below the fruit clusters. Old stockings make great ties. There are many other techniques used by gardeners for trellising their plants. Tomato cages are quite popular, and last a long time. Suckering is the practice of removing the side branches as they emerge. This reduces the number of fruit, but causes those produced to be larger and easier to find. Leave 2 to 3 main stems to develop canopy and fruit. If rainfall is not enough, water plants thoroughly once a week. Heavy soakings once a week are better than many light sprinklings. More frequent watering may be needed in sandy soils, especially in the first week plants are set. Include a lot of organics in your soil to help absorb and hold water. A fairly new watering technique, called `trickle' or `drip' irrigation is worth trying in your garden. Materials for installation are available at many garden supply stores. It works best in conjunction with mulching. This method conserves water. This can be done by hand or with a hoe or cultivator. Mulching also helps to keep weeds down. PROBLEMS AND PESTS— Some of the serious tomato pests are whiteflys, hornworms, fruitworms, aphids, leafminers, pinworms, stinkbugs, loopers, cutworms and mole crickets. Worm damage appears as chewed out areas or holes in leaves, stems or fruit. Aphids suck juices from young tender leaves and carry plant diseases. Swarms of tiny whiteflies may be seen on and around plants. They cause plant yellowing and poor color development in fruits. Ants may be troublesome, especially in organic amended soils. Ants chew holes around the stem scar. Leafminers and pinworms feed within the leaf, leaving tunnels and darkened area. Stinkbugs suck juices from fruits and cutworms chew seedling stems and feed on leaf parts. Mole crickets tunnel under seeds and young plants and cause soil and roots to dry out. Insecticidal soap and Bt are used by many organic gardeners with fair success. A general purpose garden insecticide applied according to label directions will control some of these pests. Spider mites, although not insects, can cause serious injury to the foliage. Leaf spots can usually be controlled with sprays or dusts. Wilts and viruses must be controlled by other means such as use of resistant varieties. The letters V, F, N which often follow a variety name, refer, respectively, to that variety's resistance to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and nematodes. When, two of the same letters occur together, such as FF, it denotes resistance to 2 `races' of the disease. They are abundant in most garden soils. Plants become stunted, wilted, and may die. Injury can usually be found by examining roots for swollen, knotty galls or brown, sheared- off areas.
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